Stitch-and-glue boat building, along with the development of epoxy and modern mahogany marine plywood, has revolutionized and revitalized wooden boat building.

This method of boat building is not only stronger, lighter, and faster than traditional wooden boat building, but it also takes far less skill. Here's how a CLC stitch-and-glue kayak is assembled. Of course each model is a little different, but you'll get the idea...  These drawings, by John Harris, show a Chesapeake 16.  You can watch a video of this kayak kit being built from start to finish here.

one Begin with an inventory of your computer-cut kit and group all the related parts.	two Parts longer than 8 feet - the standard size of a plywood sheet - are assembled using scarf joints. Scarf joints, bonded with epoxy, are like a weld; stronger than the surrounding wood.
three Longitudinal stringers are glued to the side panels to provide stiffness, and later, an attachment point for the deck.	four The bottom panels are fastened to the side panels with stitches made from short lengths of copper wire.
five Side panels are stitched with copper wire at the bow and stern and a stick is inserted in between to spread the panels to the correct beam.	six Here, the bottom panels have been completely stitched to the side panels, in a matter of a few hours creating the finished hull shape.
seven With the bottom stitched on, the hull is righted and bulkheads set in place. The bulkheads help stiffen the hull and create watertight compartments.	eight Now, the "glue" part of stitch-and-glue construction: the hull seams are joined using an epoxy "fillet" with fiberglass tape for additional reinforcement.
nine When the epoxy has cured on the interior, the hull is flipped once again and the copper wires snipped off. The seams are snaded smooth and filled completely.	ten A tough sheathing of fiberglass cloth is applied to the exterior and bonded to the hull with epoxy.
eleven The sheer clamps (the stringers glued on back in step three) are planed to accept the deck panels using a template provided with the kit.	twelve Decks are prepared for installation by applying a coat of epoxy to their undersides.
thirteen The deck is installed in two operations: first the stern, then the bow. The deck is fastened down with bronze ring nails while the glue dries.	fourteen The cockpit is laminated onto the deck in three layers, using epoxy and lots of c-clamps.
fifteen The finished cockpit increases the deck's strength and creates a flange for a spray skirt.	sixteen While the cockpit is curing, the hatch covers are assembled.
seventeen Hatch openings are cut in the deck and reinforced.	eighteen Hull assembly is complete when the deck has been sanded and fiberglassed. Time to varnish! Sanding and finishing can be expected to take about half of the total time of the project.
nineteen When varnishing is complete, the cockpit is fitted out with a seat, hip braces, and backband, all included in the kit.	twenty Foot braces, included in the kit, complete the fit-out.
finished! Just add varnish... and water! You can spend as much time finishing as you want. At minimum, you'll need a coat or three of varnish or paint to protect the epoxy from the sun's rays. You control the finish quality - when you're ready, go paddling!
Watch this boat under construction in our 14-part video. Watch some of our boatbuilding classes in these great time-lapse videos!

 

TOOLS & SUPPLIES

Relatively few tools are required to build a stitch-and-glue boat. Here's a list and a little advice; 

 

Tools you must have;

• Tape Measure This is the most often used tool in your shop. Get a good quality 25' tape.
• String Line or Chalk Line
• Small Handsaw We like the Japanese Saws that cut on the pull stroke. A small back saw, dovetail saw or other small saw will also work.
• Block Plane Any plane must be kept very sharp to work well. In fact, the sharpness of the iron is much more important than the type of plane you use. An inexpensive plane is okay. CLC carries quality planes and waterstones.
• Drill and Bits You could use an old eggbeater-style drill or even a bit and brace, but these newfangled cordless drills are pretty neat. On the other hand, if you want to economize, you can get a lot better drill for the money if you buy the plug-in type.Buy an extra drill bit of the size needed for drilling tie holes.
• Screwdrivers
• Pliers
• Wire Cutters These are for cutting the wire or electrical ties. The diagonal cutter type are by far the best.
• Sharp Knife A regular utility knife.
• Small Hammer 12 oz. or 16 oz.
• Sawhorses See our Shop Tip on how you can build your own.
• Dust Mask or Respirator For sanding and painting.
• Safety Glasses Please wear them.
• Clamps You'll need at least 15 clamps, 30 is better. C-Clamps are great but get at least a few Spring Clamps than can be used with one hand. Rub soap, wax, or grease on clamp threads so epoxy won't stick to them. You can make your own clamps from PVC drain pipe in this Shop Tip.

 

Optional Tools - These are nice to have if you are not starting from a kit;

• Saber Saw This is the one tool for which it really pays to buy the best. Most boatbuilders seem to prefer Bosch saws, but we use Porter Cable saber saws and really like them.
• Carpenter's Square The standard 24" roofing square will do.
• Staple Gun An Arrow T-50 is the standard.
• Electric Sander The random orbital type are the most versatile. We've had the best luck with Bosch and Porter Cable sanders. The Makita quarter sheet sander is a bit slower than the random orbital type, but it's inexpensive and seems to last forever. A big 7" grinder is also nice to have, but it takes a lot of skill to use one without destroying the boat.
• Table Saw They are nice to have if you're building from scratch. You probably use a neighbor's saw or have the lumber ripped at the lumber yard, but try to talk your spouse into letting you buy one anyway.
• Chisels Don't buy cheap chisels.
• Mallet
• Marking Gauge
• Bevel Square
• Trammels These are like a giant drafting compass are handy for laying out radii when building from scratch.
• Even more clamps

Supplies

• Sandpaper (80, 220, and 400 grit).
• Disposable Foam Brushes The type with wooden, not plastic handles.
• Disposable Bristle Brushes Also called chip brushes.
• Disposable Foam Rollers & Frame These must be the short nap yellow type that are also used for applying lacquer. Never use the black foam rollers.
• Epoxy Metering Pumps or Measuring Cups Metering pumps are included in our epoxy kits.
• Stirring Sticks Popsicle sticks.
• Filleting Sticks
• Disposable Gloves It's far more economical to buy a box of 100.
• Plastic Sheet or Wax Paper