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Re: deck details
Posted by Dennis Rioux on Jun 10, 2004
James,
I recently did some onlays of thin veneers (maybe 1/32") on the WR18 I am building. I put them over the deck tip scarf joint and the butt joints back at the cockpit. You can build up the epoxy around the onlays before you glass so you don't get bubbles or a sharp line in the epoxy. You put masking tape around the perimeter of the design about 1/4" out and fill in the little dam with epoxy. I ended up putting tape on top of that little reservoir of epoxy to force out bubbles and make it smooth. I can post a photo if you are interested.
You can also put a design on rice paper and put it under the glass or on top of it -- search the archives for a recent discussion about this. I ran some rice paper through a laser printer (I taped it to a regular sheet of paper since it was not robust enough for the process on its own) and put that on top of one of my onlays for a nameplate. There's a photo of the results below. I have not done inlays -- though others such as Kurt have (check out his informative and entertaining web site for more). The benefit there would be no transition region in the epoxy from unmodified deck areas.
I plan to leave my nails exposed like you. I am adding a rub rail at the deck/hull joint and painting to the rail. I have not got there yet, so I cannot offer any tips. I hope the rub rail helps make the transition look smoother than it probably will be.
Dennis
In Response to: deck details by James WK on Jun 10, 2004
Replies:
- Re: deck details by Kurt Maurer on Jun 11, 2004
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Re: deck details by Dennis Rioux on Jun 11, 2004
- Re: deck details by Kurt Maurer on Jun 11, 2004
- Re: deck details by Dennis Rioux on Jun 11, 2004
- Re: deck details by Kurt Maurer on Jun 11, 2004
- Re: deck details by James on Jun 13, 2004
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Re: deck details by Dennis Rioux on Jun 11, 2004
- Re: deck details by James WK on Jun 13, 2004
- Re: deck details by Dennis Rioux on Jun 13, 2004