other suggestions

Posted by Howard on Jul 18, 2005

for the eyelets, if you set the deck in advance of installing the eyelets....do the following...

cut the tip of the eyelet back so that it would end up flush with the wood. (i think its 4 or 8mm at that point depending if your hole goes into the bulkhead doubler or not) put some epoxy in the hole with a toothpick. dip the eyelet threads with epoxy before putting it in. you want to avoid having a sharp point in your compartment.

as you are contemplating putting on the deck...one suggestion that i made to superior kayaks, is that you complete the step of drilling out your holes for the foot peg rails. at this point you should have drilled and filled....but the final drill, according to the manual, is not until the after the deck is on and the boat is almost completed. this is really hard to do if you are working alone (or for that matter, even if you have help). with the deck off, drilling the final holes is relatively easy to ensure they go right where you want them and that they line up with the holes in the rail (you can test it at this stage).

also, if you have not started planing your shear clamps, the manual is a bit confusing about the transition area between planing the shear flat for the rear deck and angled to accomodate the front deck. the transition should occur with respect to the front and back of the original small cockpit opening of the cockpit - not the cockpit area as defined by the front and rear bulkhead. or to put it another way, take the original cockpit rim....and place it on the hull where it should be....mark the shear with the front inside edge and the rear inside edge. it's between these two points that the bevel in the shear has to transition between flat for the rear...and angled up and in to accomodate the bow of the front deck.

one last note....superior does offer a skeg kit....$150. its a lot easier to put on now if you want one vs retro-fitting later.

In Response to: Re: don't fret by Crystal on Jul 18, 2005


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