Re: Chespk 17 deck instal

Posted by LeeG on Dec 11, 2006

honestly doesn't matter whether you use wood flour or cabosil. Wood flour is cheaper. A mix of 80/20 wood/cabosil is a worthwhile mix for color and not sagging. On my first s&g a Patuxent I ran out of wood flour and used whole wheat flour.

There's a tendency to slather on lots of goop on the sheer clamps then watch it drip or turn the boat over (don't bother) but you can make it neat by the following sequence. Brush on unthickened epoxy over sheerclamps and wipe off any wet spots. Basically walk around the boat brushing on then wiping off drips/wet spots. This ensures no exposed soft absorbant cypress to soak up water when the kayak sits on it's side.

Don't forget to round over the inside corner of the sheerclamps a LOT. At least 1/4", an epoxied corner isn't nice for hands reaching around frantically while carrying kayak or adjusting footbraces. Then walk around with a thickened epoxy that's a bit wetter than fillet consistancy about 1/16" thick.

In order to get a clamp on the back end of the coaming stack and underside of the deck you need some overhang 3/8"-1/2" should do it. It's ok for the deck to intrude into the coaming because you have to round over the inside a lot anyway.

For the forward edge it's easier to have the deck/deck beam somewhat flush but it honestly doesn't matter. I've seen aft decks cantilevered over the back bulkhead by a couple inches and the front deck cantilevered over the front deck beam a couple inches or intruded into the cockpit by a couple inches. Once the coaming stack is glued up the deck beam is kind of superfluous. You want to round off the underside of the deck beam a LOT because it's where your shins WILL make forceful contact sometimes. Ditto the inside edge of the coaming on the sides.

In Response to: Chespk 17 deck install by Tom on Dec 11, 2006