A few Wood Duck suggestions...

I've built one WD-12 and two Ducklings, and am now working on a third Duckling for another grandson. I each case, the most problematical part has been torturing the plywood at the bow and stern, especially the stern, to get them closed without tearing out the holes where the wires go through. Here's the bow before trying to close it:
So I had an idea: 
I used quarter-inch threaded rod, fender washers, nuts and wingnuts to gradually and securely close the bow and stern. I drilled 5/16" holes to accommodate the quarter-inch rod (to allow the rod to pass through at the angle) an d I used 5/16 i.d. fender washers for the same reason.

Here's the stern, ready to see if the transom fits:

And the answer:

By the way, it helps to spray those parts with water before bending, as suggested in the manual.
You might wonder: what am I going to do with those holes? The holes closest to the sheer will ultimately be drilled out to 5/8-inch to accommodate 1/2-inch pvc pipe for my rope handles. The holes lower down will be glassed and filled, and covered by the epoxy-graphite bottom coat that I plan to use.

A couple more suggestions to make life a little easier:

Use extra wire stitches on either side of the temporary forms and bulkhead. As you force the panels into contact with the forms, the seam between the panels tends to open up at these points. The extra wire stitches will keep the seam tightly closed. Also, as you squeeze the bow and stern closed, seams nearby will want to open up. Use extra stitches there too, before closing the bow and stern. 

The seams between the bottom panel and the side panel will want to spring out of alignment as you close up the bow and the stern. Bring them back into alignment with "buttons" of scrap wood and sheetrock screws. Drill a small pilot hole right at the seam where you want to press the panels into alignment, because without the hole the screw will force the panels apart and open a gap between them. Also, cover the  wooden "buttons" with package-sealing tape, so they won't bond permanently to the hull when you epoxy the joints. The first picture shows some of the "buttons" from inside the hull, and the second shows a bunch of them from the outside.


Hope this makes your building experience a little easier!


3 replies:

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RE: A few Wood Duck suggestions...

Sorry about the double pictures. I still haven't quite figured this out!

RE: A few Wood Duck suggestions...

WOW ! Frankenduck. If I were to do another WD or go into production like you have I might try a jig that fits over the gunnels with jack scews to push the panels in and tack with CA glue. But that's just me. I hate making holes. As it is my duck has an odd bulge or two where a stich let go while the fillets set but only I can tell and I ain't talking.

RE: A few Wood Duck suggestions...

Good info, Jim. Of course, the Schade brothers don't need to do any of this, but for the rest of us mere mortals something has to be done to torture that bow. Good suggestions.



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