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My name is Dale Dagger and .....
I am a long time fan of John Harris and I've built several of his designs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtpJtv7poTE
if you have the time and bandwidth to watch a vid of an outrigger canoe we built in Nicaragua. Note the begginings of Maddness if you will.
Because all the good plywood was bought up and shipped away from Nicaragua I have bought a NorthEastern Dory in Kit form from CLC and we will build it here.
I come from a surfing backgound, I sponsered a young man named Laird Hamiliton when he was 18 years old cause i saw something very special in him. I had no idea at the time he would change surfing compleatly.
I have a building partner who is also from a surf background and is probally a beter craftsman than myself. We hope to add some valuable content in the form of beautiful photos and video to the forum. As far as building tips, I am sure there are members here who have breathed more sawdust thn I have created so we are here actulally to learn.
The dory is going to be painted inside and out with LP. Sorry I am not a fan of varnish or clear finishes here at 11 degrees north. My first question is the number of clamps we will need for the rubrail. I hate to use drywall screws as they leave large holes to fill but Russel Brown suggests small nails files with a sryinge. there is also the cut PVC clamp method. What I want to here from an experenced hand is do we really need 123 c clamps? If I hear a decent reason we will buy them and lug em on down.
Thank you all for the oppertunity to be part of an astute group of boat builders and allowing me to take part.
dale dagger
3 replies:
RE: First Post (introduction)
Hey Dale!
Note Laszlo's extensive use of spring clamps instead of C-Clamps to install the rails. Much cheaper, about a buck each at big box stores, and work just fine on the Dory. If you install just one rail per side at a time you won't need as much clamping strength so you can get by with a few less clamps, maybe thirty/side. Also the PVC clamps would probably work if you did just one rail/side at a time. Both rails together require a bit of pressure. I throw in a C-Clamp or F type clamp every couple of feet if doing both rails/side at the same time. Bottom line is you definitely won't need 123 C-Clamps!
Looking forward to building updates.
George K
RE: First Post (introduction)
Hey Dale!
Nice to see you on here! I stayed with you in San juan del sur a few years back. One of my top ten surf trips! Capitan Juan! Been trying to get back ever since! How about I bring all of my clamps down and we can trade for a few weeks in Gigante? LOL! Building a Peeler Skiff now. Already built two sea kayaks, two Kaholo SUPs and a 9' Grain Root. Been collecting clamps for almost 20 years. Say hi to Eberly and the crew for me! And oh yea, Ernesto, the guy with the Glassing shop in Cali!
Billy Caldwell
RE: First Post (introduction)
» Submitted by Laszlo - Thu, 12/12/13 » 12:17 PM
Hi Dale,
I recently built a schooner about the same length as the dory and I really wished that I had a lot more than the 42 clamps that I did use. I got away with it (because the schooner has less of a curve than the dory), but it would have been a lot easier with all the extra clamps.
You really need to hold the rubrails in tight enough so that the thickened epoxy won't run out. Otherwise the gaps will be concentrators for fatigue stress and areas where rot can start.
And don't even think of getting only 62 clamps and doing one side at a time. That's the perfect prescription for an asymmetrical boat.
The rubrails are a major structural stiffener. As such, if they aren't properly attached the boat will have major structural issues. If you can't use clamps, then use screws, but you really have to have them properly clamped or risk losing your entire investment.
Have fun with the build,
Laszlo
ry