look at the clc building supplies area:

http://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-building-supplies-epoxy-fiberglass-plywood/marine-paint-varnish/interlux-schooner-marine-varnish.html

for a high-gloss and very solid UV protection....this works great at a very good price.

this would be the 'standard' finish.  can't go wrong.

if you want a really slick look....you can actually polish this varnish to get a super cool glass/furniture-like finish.   same material....just a lot more labor.

howard

   I have used the perfection plus, bi-composite with a uv filter, iin 4 layers on my chester yawl and my shearwater 17 take apart.

After 2 winters on the CY andand 1 on the , everything is ok

   I have used Epifanes and Interlux Schooner Gold. They are both top quality products, however I do like the Epifanes more. I used the Interlux on a West River 18 I built for my brother and experimented with something different on his dime. It was 12.00 more per quart, I justified that by the promise of a hi-build/ less coats theory. I did not notice any difference in the thickness of each coat, and the Epifanes has a deeper amber tint, which I personally like on Okoume. Good Luck!

How long do I need to wait between coats? Thanks   

Hey Howard...could you advise the process for polishing varnish?

   Curt,

I buff varnished bright work by first wet sanding with 600 and sometimes up to 800 followed with Meguiars #9 or #7 depending on how many coats of varnish I'm working with. If there is a lot of dirt or dust pimples I may even start with "Scratch X" but only vary rarely.  Either can be done by hand for small or difficult areas and both can be done with an air or electric buffer. Practive before power buffing and if you do use a buffer keep in moving and dont stay in one place to long.

JP

Should we use rubbing compound or a wax?  Jim   

Jim

Fine grit rubbing compound(s) but only after all coats have been applied and fully cured. . . You could wax as a final step for protection but be sure not to leave an excessive layer of wax. I personally would only recomend using Carnauba based paste wax as they are very clear and will not yellow with age. My mentors used Almond oil or paste as a final polish / protector but it becomes very slippery when wet. . . 

JP

Gentlemen,

My wife pointed out a clarification I should make about my statement of old or bad varnish. . . Varnish in an unopened can typically has an indefinite shelf life if kept at nominal temperatures. A can that has been opened and resealed generally will go bad within a year or two.

Sorry for any confusion that may have caused.

JP

   Thank you for your help, The compound must take out the fine brush marks, do I want to light sand before I apply compound?  Jim

Yes. . I typically wet sand with 600 as a final sanding to remove any fine imperfections then use the Scratch X to take out any swirl marks I may have created, then the #9, then a good wash with Dawn and warm water then, wax.  There are many very good brands of compounds and waxes I have only used the Meguiars and have done so for well over 30 years.

JP

���do you also polish painted surfaces like Brightside?

 Depends. . . If I am looking for a high shine finish in a black or other dark color I would. You have to be careful though as you can burn through most paints pretty easy with compounds, even by hand. . . Most marine enamels are hard enough to be buffed wihtout to much concern. They all take wax well.

JP

Thanks for your help, I'm going to apply the first coat of varnish tonight, I will use an HVLP sprayer and see if it works, I hope it does as I don't trust myself not leaving brush marks. I wonder if I shouls thin with mineral spirits.   

Jim,

My “go to” method has always been brushing but I have done spray work with HVLP sprayers.  Depending on the varnish you are using I would definitely thin by at least 10% for the sprayer for all coats over a fiberglass or cured epoxy and at least 30% on bare wood for the first coat only. I would also recommend checking the varnish manufacturer to see what they recommend. Be sure you are also using the recommended tip on the sprayer for varnish and run some on some scrap before applying to your project. I would  recoat within 72 hours if you don’t plan on sanding between coats and plan on 3 or more coats extra than if you were brushing.

JP

JP...great info!!  So on painted (Interlux Brightsides) if a person didnt buff it, is it a good idea to just apply a wax?  If so, what wax would you suggest?   

 Hello again Curt,

My recomendation would be any quality brand Carnuba paste wax as they will be clear and will not "yellow" lighter finishes under UV rays.  

JP

  Ok, I sprayed with a 1.3 tip and thinned by 10% with mineral spirits. It looks good, do I have to sand between coats? When is the soonest I can respray? I really don't want to sand between coats. 

Jim,

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. . . I work nights and just got up. 

If you didn't get many dust pimples in your first coat you could respray as soon as it tacks up and is dry to a light touch. If it feels dry to a light touch and you can leave a light finger print in an inconspiquous area you should be good to go. I would not wait longer than  48 to 72 hours depending on the temp and humidity you are working in. 

I got to be honest, I would rather give you this advice in person rather than on a post. . . It's a little nerv racking that I'm not there to see whether or not my recomendations are working out for you. . . I'm new to all this 21st century internet stuff. 

JP