Your best guide is the Peeler Skiff Manual.  CLC did a great job with it.  I bought an extra copy just so there was a copy in the workshop (12 miles from my home) and one I could read at night to prepare for the next day.  I always learned more every time I read it.

You didn't specify which (forward or cockpit) seats were a problem or where they were binding.  We could probably be of more help with that information.  There are many reasons that the parts need to be adjusted, not the least of which is the fact that they're wood.  Even if cut perfectly, wood (even plywood) does swell and shrink with their moisture content (I can remember a fair amount of filing required to fit the puzzle joints on my Peeler) and every sheet of plywood bends slightly differently.

The plywood, glass, and epoxy construction techniques allow one to fix almost any mistake, so don't worry too much.  Just take things slowly and take off only a little material at a time.  Then try the fit again.  A rasp worked well for me.  In boatbuilding, patience is a virtue.

I am just about ready to flip my Peeler. The only fitting that I have had to do to date was the seats - both fore and aft.  I probably removed 1/4 from each side in the back a little less in the front. I was able to scribe the back seat halves before they were glued together - it would be much harder had I glued the assembly first. The notches in the seats should touch the risers on the bulkheads.  The fore seat was just eyeballed. I tried a plane, Shinto rasp and surform before settling on a belt sander.  All in all it was pretty easy if a little nerve racking. The joints are covered with fillets and tape. 

   Thanks Dick, Jeff and Jack, that's helpful.  Dick, these are the cockpit (aft) seats.  Thanks too for the reminder about taking off the edges at an angle. I've been using the rasp and getting good results, just need to take more off to have the starboard side lay flat and allow the puzzle joints to fit.

We'll move through it slowly and I'm sure it'll come together nicely. Appreciate it guys.

   This is a fussy bit in the build. I used the same technique of scribing and shaving until the puzzle joints matched up. I also had to lengthened the slots for the bulkheads. One point I'd add is to alternate the sides so the seat assembly is centered.

Enjoy your build and send pictures.

Thanks for your feedback all.  I did take my rasp to the sides and got more aggressive and was able to fit the aft puzzle joints and sides well. It all fits well except when I fit the forward puzzle joints on the seat (in front of the console). In tne forward seat when one side of the puzzle joint goes together the other he other puzzle joint- the last part to go in to make it all fit- isn't close to fitting - it overlaps by maybe 2 inches. Any more sanding/rasping and there'd be too much gap(s) in the back.

Has anyone dealt with this before? I tried to upload a picture but can't seem to. 

Thanks, Jack    

For my Peeler build, the puzzle joints were the primary fitting issue.  So we completely assembled and glassed the cockpit seats on a flat cellar floor before fitting them to the boat.  Jist one fewer thing to line up when installing the seat.  I may be a chicken but it worked for us.

It'll all workout in the end.

A couple of pictures:

   I remember that was one of the trickiest parts of the build.  I didn't glass my seats but I dry fitted the puzzle joints and had a helper lift the entire unit into place to scribe marks on the sides to shape them.  We did this process many times until the whole unit would drop in nice and flat on the bulkheads and tank sides.  If you are worried about damaging the puzzles you can use two small boards and spring clamp them over and under the joints until they are resting in the boat.  Then remove the clamps to fit.  I remember taking a little off each side like 20 times before we got the whole thing to drop in flat.  After they fit nice we glued up the joints.  I set the entire unit on four horses and air clamped the joints using two stiff boards with plastic wrap for each joint and using different size clamps to squeeze the boards together and mate the joints.  Came out pretty perfect.  Or you can use the weighting method if you have a solid build table or really flat floor.  If you have shaved off too much material anywhere dont worry, the fillits will cover the errors.  You will want to shape in some scrap wood to wedge in the gaps so your fillit material doesn't "drain" out or sag into the tanks.  It takes time.  I'm still not done with my boat.  27 months now!  lol!  one more coat of varnish!

SurferBill is right.  With these building methods, you can fix almost anything.

   Thank you guys, very helpful. Pictures are nice too. I'm going to work and will report back!