Jimmy Skiff, Using zip ties, drilling holes, removing ties

 Can I predrill the holes along the bottom of the side panels or doesn't need to be done during the assembly so that the holes lineup? How about the other panels being predrilled

 The kit came with 1/8 inch zip ties has anyone had experience using copper wire that I'm used to using?

 The instructions say to drill holes for the ties 3/8 of an inch in on the botom board but it seems logical that for the transom holes the spacing should be 1/2 inch since the transom is 387 inch thick

. In the classes I have taken in Annapolis we tacked the hull together  between where the wires were on the kayak and pram that I built then took the wires out before strengthening the structure with fillets. The instructions say to leave the ties in is this a better method of construction?

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RE: Jimmy Skiff, Using zip ties, drilling holes, removing ties


Yes, you can predrill the holes as long as you measure to make sure that they line up.

For a boat that size, zip ties are better than the copper wire. There's more force involved than with a small boat, so wire tends to cut into the wood. Zip ties are gentler. My larger boats were all built with zip ties and they all came out fine.

Are you trying to follow rivet/screw spacing rules for the ties? If so, you don't need to since the need for the ties to actually support anything is only temporary.

No, just different. I've done it both ways with zip ties. I prefer tacking and removing. For one thing, it takes a lot of fillet material to bury the ties. Here's a comparison for you:

Ties left in

Ties removed

Enjoy your Jimmy Skiff, it's a real fun boat,



RE: Jimmy Skiff, Using zip ties, drilling holes, removing ties

Thank you Lazio, all very helpful.  I had a typo in my question about how far from the edge to drill the holes for the ties.  It makes sense to dril 1/8" in from the wood and the transom on the Jimmy skiff is 3/8" thick so I drilled in 1/2 " .  Thanks for the info on removing ties. I liked the tacking and removing method.   

Jimmy Skiff bulkhead doesn't fit

Two questions

How do I make sure that the forward  bulkhead is vertical?  Is there a station on the hull floor that I can use to level the hull as it would be in the water and then use a level to make the bulkhead vertical


   As you can see from the pic below the forward bulkhead at the correct location doesnt fir well.  My corrective plan is to add the bulkhead after the fillets are done but before adding fiberglass over the fillets, adding the rub rails or fiberglassing the bottom. My rational is that if I add the bulkhead in the order perscribed by the instruction manual the hiull wifll not allow the bulkhead to fit.

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