Passagemaker Gunter Sloop - Rigging Details

Here's a quick write-up from some detail pics I took yesterday in the driveway because the forecast wasn't conducive to go sailing.  At least I got something done...

Let's start with the traveler bridle for the mainsheet.  It's spliced Dyneema.  It girth hitches onto one handle, then I spliced in a quick connect snap onto a Brummel locked loop to get the right overall tension.  From my Laser days, our travelers were always tight over the tiller.  Some may want a larger triangle and that's fine, but it may affect your sheeting angle.  Then I found the center of that assembly and spliced in another Brummel lock loop.  This is where the mainsheet snap shackle attaches. 

From there the mainsheet goes up to a single turning block on a snap/padeye into the boom for a secure attachment point.  Since this sail is much larger than the EP's lug, I wanted to be able to handle the larger loads.  This then goes to a double block mid-boom (next pic).  Also note the temporary outhaul.  I will splice a loop into the permanent outhaul and make it a bit shorter so it doesn't dangle in my face.

Here you can see the double fiddle block I used to create a 3:1 purchase.  For lighter days, I think I can get away with 1:1.  You can also see my soft attachment for the fiddle block.  It's a chamfered hole drilled into the center thwart.  There's also a doubler backing plate underneath.  The strop is Dyneema with a small eye spliced for the snap to quick-connect with a lanyard stop knot underneath.  Since it's soft, it can flip out of the way for rowing and there's only one hole.

The jib sheets are regatta braid, which is a single braid, so I could Brummel lock an eye into the center.  Then I attach that to the clew of the jib with a soft shackle.  This means there's no metal parts flailing around when the jib is flogging.  I still have to rig either a downhaul or a furler.  One negative is that although the regatta braid is soft in the hand, it catches on the aggressive non-skid I used on the bottom of the boat.

I then ran the jib sheets to a Spinlock rope clutch.  They're fast and easy on/off when tacking and they grip the regatta braid well.  I thought about getting the rotating version, but I didn't want the additional degree of freedom to have to deal with when tacking.

The forestay attaches to the top of the mast with a padeye and a snap, but down at the bow knee, I have a tensioner with a soft shackle.  This way, I can step the mast with the rig detuned and once everything is stable, I just fold the tensioner in half and stick in the quick pin and the rig is pre-tensioned.  This arrangement has accidentally worked out really well and in fact, I can step the mast with all three attachment points clipped in.  In this photo, you can also see the longer soft shackle I use for the tack of the jib.

For the gooseneck, it's a fixed Racelite with tangs (instead of the pin version recommended in the wooden mast instructions).  I can pull the quick pin to rig/de-rig.  There's a built in and elegant solution for the tack of the main and the gooseneck is located so when the halyard is tensioned properly, there's almost no need for a downhaul.  With that being said, I'm still experimenting with either a downhaul or a way to tension the halyard better to get rid of some wrinkles in the main.  Here, you can see a low-tech attempt at a 2:1 on the first luff grommet.  It's attached to an eyebolt on the other side of the tang.  This creates an unsightly wrinkle near the tack.

Here's the main doused.  You can see the yard rides on another Racelite sliding gooseneck along the Shaefer 5/8" track which is through-bolted to the yard.  The luff also has slides installed on each grommet as specified by Sailrite.  I sprung for the ridiculously expensive sail track stop, but it has some cool features like the knurled knob is captive, so I can only lose the whole thing.  It screws into an empty hole in the sail track.  Note, there's enough clearance between the end of the track and the boom's gooseneck for the yard's gooseneck to fit in between (kind of like a gate on an extruded mast).

Here you can see the main set.  The sliding gooseneck stops when the luff is under tension, the single halyard (better than having a peak & a throat halyard like some rigs) tensions the yard.  This is my temporary main halyard, which will get a proper splice once I determine the correct length for the cleat at the bottom of the mast.  The main halyard is captive in the top of the mast with a 2" Delrin sheave as per the instructions.  You can also see the single block I'm using for the temporary jib halyard.

All the hardware is as beefy as I could reasonably manage on a 12' boat.  All hardware is stainless steel.  I used Loctite blue on all fasteners as needed.  The soft shackles were all made to spec by using the calculator on

Like I said, I still have some tweaking to do, but this setup has at least gotten me sailing a few times.  Let me know your thoughts/questions and maybe we can hammer out some better ways of skinning this cat.

- Captain Skully






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RE: Passagemaker Gunter Sloop - Rigging Details


Thanks for putting all that information up! 

How has it been working out? 

Have you made any changes after trying it out? 

Any problems at all?

I'm about to finally finish building a wooden mast for my PMD, but know next to nothing about rigging. I like the idea of the tang goosenecks - any issues?




RE: Passagemaker Gunter Sloop - Rigging Details

Ha!  I posted this almost 10 months ago and you're the only response I've gotten so far...

So the rigging, as pictued has worked out very well.  I've only made a few small tweaks.

The mainsheet catches on my life jacket every time I tack, so in order to combat this, I've installed a soft shackle through the boom to hold it up tighter.  Because there are snap shackles on the blocks for easy installation, that reduces clearance under the boom by almost 2".  Now that I've built the spar racks, I may be able to leave the mainsheet rigged and eliminate them.

I had to retension the shrouds and forestay.  For the forestay, I wrapped the sam soft shackle through the bow knee one more time and that took up the proper slack to reposition the mast.  This required I redo the shrouds.  Currently, I'm ashamed to say that they are affixed with bowlines as a temporary way to find the correct length.  I may just install some Antal low-friction rings to act as dead eyes and just lash them to the proper tension, but that would increase my rig time.  If I can figure out a way to leave the shrouds attached while dropping the mast, this would be a moot point.

I recently added reef points to the mainsail.  The challenge is that if you reef, you have too much play up where the halyard attaches, so you need a parrel.  With a parrel installed, it limits the mobility of the yard so that it's difficult to install the slider at the end of the yard onto the track.  My solution to this, which I haven't tried yet is to make a sliding parrel so that it can be tightened when the sail is set.  This would basically be a slip knot with a tail that leads down to the base of the mast.  It would be made of Dyneema with a another Antal ring at one end.  The bitter end would be fed through the ring, but with wooden beads captured inside the loop.  This way, the parrel can be loose while setting the sail, then the slip knot can be tightened, thereby capturing the yard better and the bitter end cleated off.  Does that make sense?

I replaced my hi-tech Dyneema core double braid halyard with Sta-Set polyester one for better handing and cleating.

I also added a downhaul/cunningham to try and get the wrinkle out from the interior ends of the batten.  It's one of those V-Jam cleat/fiddle block things you see on Lasers (Harken 244).  Currently it's 3-strand, but I'll replace it with polyester double braid soon.

I'm not happy with my regatta braid jib sheets.  They grab on the non-skid too much and are difficult to feed through the rope clutches/jammers.  I will be replacing them with polyester double braid also.  I often forget to run the jib sheets forward of the mast before stepping, which is a pain, so hopefully the fix will make it a non-issue.

I also use soft shackles for the downhaul/cunningham and reef tack.

If I think of anything else, or do any more mods, I'll be happy to post them here.  Hope this helps.

RE: Passagemaker Gunter Sloop - Rigging Details

P.S.  This is the best soft shackle tutorial ever.

RE: Passagemaker Gunter Sloop - Rigging Details


i don’t know where I was September last year but somehow I missed this post back then. Great info.   

George K


RE: Passagemaker Gunter Sloop - Rigging Details

Skully - the images in this thread aren't visible anymore, do you have a separate article or writeup?

Also, I noticed you're in the Seattle area, so if you're still in the area, I would love to be able to check out your PMD at some point.  I'm probably going to sign up for the CWB class (next August) as soon as it's available, but I'm an obsessive person so I will probably spend the next 11 months researching the process and options.  I saw one of the class boats partially/mostly assembled, but I haven't been able to see a completed one in person yet.  Let me know!

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