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A view from the cheap seats. Okay, I've tried most of them -- the $30+ per quart varnishes recommended by the kayak kit makers and various forums. Most of them are good. A couple are impossible because they claim to "remain flexible" and can't be sanded properly. I'm back to good old domestic, $10-$12 per quart, MINWAX Indoor/Outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane Clear Gloss, available at my local hardware store. Lots less $'s, it lays on easily (over System-Three and MAS resin) using a smooth foam roller/tipping with foam brush, dries to sand in 5-12 hours, has good gloss, good depth and polishes out great with marine wax and a buffer. No, I don't sell the stuff, just a happy user. mtsailor
9 replies:
RE: Varnish
Randy or anyone else: not to push another forum but on "kayakforum.com" there is a whole discussion on wax on varnish, check it out.
RE: Varnish
You can wax over varnish (don't know why you would want to) if you like but don't try to varnish over wax, you need to varnish to varnish. It has to adhere to something, the varnish. Use wet 400 first.
RE: Varnish
Hi Randy: You need to remove all wax before revarnishing. Sanding and cleaning with paint thinner does the trick. Of course, wax is not necessary, but it gives a nice shine and good depth to a varnished finish (old furniture restorer's trick). UV protection offered by 3M Marine wax can't hurt either. It's possible to greatly increase the time between varnishings by rewaxing and buffing out surface scratches, varnishing only every few years. Be sure the varnish is well cured (a few days, so) before waxing and buffing. bromasi: Thanks for the info on the other forum. Jerry
RE: Varnish
Some build to build. Some build to paddle. Some try to build pretty boats to paddle proudly. To each his own. Paddle on.
RE: Varnish
Jerry,
I was just trying to express my amazement t of those who have the patience to spend that kind of effort on the last .002 inches of a boat (and who end up producing all the best of show winners). No offense intended.
Laszlo
RE: Varnish
None taken. I meant in this group you will find great diversity. That's what makes boat builders such interesting people. I'm just happy to be one of them, no matter where I fit in the pile. Jer
RE: Varnish
I actually came to building the LT17 as a woodworker with a new interest in paddling. My favorite woodworing finshing sequence was: Danish oil, then shellac, then a rub down with pumice and rottenstone, then wax. I've always loved the look of natual wood, and to me, that was the best way to bring out depth, figure and shine.
As a new paddler, I now have a boat, a PFD on order, but no paddle. Maybe my next post will be looking for tips on good paddle plans.
Thanks for the generosity with the information.
RE: Varnish
» Submitted by Randy - Mon, 5/5/08 » 12:00 PM
Jerry: I recently finished my LT17 and was thinking "I wonder if I can buff out this varnish with some wax . . ." My question: does the wax interfere with subsequent coats of varnish next spring or the spring after that?