Woodduck hybrid stripping

Nearly finished with my hybrid Woodduck 10.  This was a challenge after a very easy Woodduckling build.  A few things I learned may help the next strip builder:  The deck forms need to be camfered so they fit the hull snuggly.  If you start planking at the centerline using the double flat king plank method, the peak on form 0.5 must be sanded flat.  To get the first sheer strips (the ones that will connect to the hull) to stay in place, temporary sheer clamps are needed between each set of forms.  Don't bother pre-making long strips for the sheer planks with scarf joints.  Just attach the first sheer plank to the sheer clamps, then cut the next plank at a slight angle to match the end of the first plank and keep going. Once the fiberglass is on, scarf joints and butt joints look the same. Where the final strips meet the cockpit apron, I made transverse strips instead of long needle shaped strips.  Where the top end of each of these 66 short transverse strips joined the cockpit apron, I made the matching compound angle on a belt sander for a tight fit joint.  The bottom end of each transverse strip was cut and a bead made to fit into the cove on the adjoining sheer strip. These joints were then reinforced on the inside with thick epoxy fillet and fiberglass tape.  To reinforce the coaming lip, I used thickened epoxy fillet material curved up to the lip, and down to the deck and applied a 1 inch strip of fiberglass cloth over the fillet. The triangular fillet bags work great.  Fill the bag, then using a 1/2 inch dowel, start at the big end of the bag and roll up the bag over the dowel until the fillet material approaches the narrow end, then cut off the tip and fillet away.  Enjoy the build, the final results are worth the effort.


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