First of all, sanding to 220 between coats of epoxy is extreme overkill. The most you have to do is to take down the major drips and runs before the next coat. If you apply coats within 24 hours you really don't need to sand at all. If you want to sand between coats 150 will suffice. When you're entirely done with build up then you should sand the final coat to 220 for varnish or paint.

The "dimples", also known as fish eyes, are caused by dust, micro-particles actually, that you haven't gotten completely off after sanding. You could also run into a slight adhesion problem sanding to 220. The epoxy will bond better to a slightly irregular surface, i.e., 150 or even 80 grit sanding. I know there will be some here who disagree but I found that running my hands over the area to be epoxied after water rinsing and drying will pick up any particles left. Just make sure your hands are clean and wipe them on a lint free cloth between swipes. Unless you're an extremely greasy person there's not enough oil in your palms to cause adhesion problems. The one thing you absolutely do not want to do is use a tack cloth that will leave a residue of any sort.

George K

George,

Damn, I thought the tack cloth was the way to go, and have been using it the entire time ! OK I will not use it on the next coat. I am getting impatient and have already had the yak in 4 times. I really want to get the varnish on to get the UV protection. I bought Interlux Perfection Varnish on a recomendation from a local builder, have you used it, any advice ? I hope to attend The Wooden Boat Show in Mystic next weekend, and will try and aquire as much info as I can from experienced builders.

Will sanding and rinsing remove any tach cloth residue ? I need the cycle to end, the season is too short!

Thanks again

You asked about removing the residue from the tack cloth.  I defer to those with experience in the specific question you ask.  But absent any better information, I would do this: rub off the waxy residue from the tack cloth with something that dissolves wax, not with water, which is simply repelled by wax.

I'd use acetone, or at least ethanol (sold as "denatured alcohol").  Methyl ethyl ketone would be even better than either at attacking wax, I think, but I tend to avoid it, myself, maybe just superstitious.  If I use it, I use it outdoors with a mask with activated carbon cartridges.

Detergent solution might work too, and would at least be way better than water and sanding, which I would think would just smear the wax around.

Norton makes a red micro-fiber based tack rag without the “tacky” coating. I have found it works very well and can be washed out by hand and dried. You could also dampen a lint free rag with denatured alcohol and give a light wipe before coating.

Any of the above mentioned solvents should remove the residue from the tack rag. I'd try the denatured alcohol first as it's probably the most benign of the lot.

As far as the Interlux varnish, I've never used it, I use Epiphanes, but I have used Interlux paints and I'm sure their varnish is as good a product.

Looking forward to seeing some pix when you're done.

George K

Surface,

Have you ever used any tack cloths for prepping a boat for another coat of epoxy? If so, can you recommend one that'll work?

George K