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In dry fitting my PMD bow seat I discovered that the seat does not snug up against the hull sides, which I assume it should do. There appears to be up to a 1/4 - 5/16 in gap along the sides of the seat, I'm not sure if I can/ should fill that size gap with epoxy/wood flour. I could probably reduce the gap some by filing down the bulkhead but the seat seems pretty level and I'm afraid once I start down that road I'll just make things worse. Any thoughts? Thanks. Bruce
4 replies:
RE: Passagemaker bow seat fit
Sorry for the very long delay in responding - I have been away from the boat for a while. I still haven't found a good solution - I flipped the boat over and started working on the skeg, with which I am also having some fit problems. Did you solve the bow seat fit? The only solution I can think of is a) live with a less than perfectly horizontal seat, b) add a couple of wood cleats under the seat and/or use lots of thickened epoxy.
RE: Passagemaker bow seat fit
Wood cleats and/or epoxy/woodflour putty is how I'd do it if it was my boat. Big taped fillets would give good support.
To get a perfect skeg fit, put the skeg in place on the bottom and use a couple of strips of tape to hold it in place. Lay a carpenter's pencil left/right on the bottom, point against the skeg. Pull it along the skeg. You have just scribed a perfect copy of the boat bottom as it is (vs. as it was designed) half a pencil width up on the side of the skeg. Cut to that line as carefully as you can. Done right, you won't see any light between that bottom and the skeg when you test fit it.
Laszlo
RE: Passagemaker bow seat fit
PS - if there's gaps higher than the width of a pencil, put the pencil on a piece of wood before scribing.
Laszlo
RE: Passagemaker bow seat fit
» Submitted by bur_burrr - Tue, 8/15/23 » 10:16 AM
I'm having the same issue, what did you end up doing to find a solution?