• Protect the Surroundings: Lay down protective coverings around the area where you will be cutting to catch any dust or debris.
• Wear Safety Gear: Ensure you have safety glasses, gloves, and a dust mask to protect yourself from epoxy dust and debris.
   
• Mark the Cut Line: Use a pencil or marker to carefully outline where you plan to cut. Ensure that the line is straight and clean to minimize the amount of cleanup required.
• Use the Jeweler’s Saw: Gently cut along the marked line with the jeweler's saw. Work slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the surrounding area or the kayak itself. Take breaks to ensure you’re staying on track and not applying too much force.
   
• Remove Residual Epoxy: After cutting, clean any remaining epoxy from both surfaces using a scraper or a fine sanding tool. You want both surfaces to be free of debris and rough enough to ensure a strong bond when re-epoxied.
   
• Realign the Pieces: Position the pieces in the correct orientation and ensure they fit together properly. Double-check alignment before proceeding.
• Apply Epoxy: Mix the epoxy according to the manufacturer’s instructions and apply it to the joint. Make sure to fill any gaps and cover the joint thoroughly.
• Clamp the Joint: Use clamps or weights to hold the pieces together firmly while the epoxy cures. Follow the curing time recommended by the epoxy manufacturer.
  More infor: https://clcboats.com/forum/clcforum/thread/snow rider-32659.html 

I'd use a heat gun, instead. Unless you've got a really steady hand and lots of practice, cutting is pretty much guaranteed to change the shape of the wood. Softening the epoxy to allow the joint to be separated would not. Of course, there'd still be the problem of removing the residual epoxy to restore the oiginal shape of the joint but you'd have to do that in either case.

Also, remember that if all else fails, CLC will sell you replacement wood parts.

Good luck,

Laszlo

When I glued the puzzle joints together I mixed silica with the epoxy, will the heat gun be good enough to soften up the epoxy & silica?  Once I heat it up will the puzzle joint be somewhat loose enough to press it out?

My only concern would be cleaning out the old epoxy and making sure it matches up with the other side of the puzzle joint.

I did call CLC inquiring about the replacement side panel. I'm thinking ordering another side panel will be my best option.  Then I can experiment with the heat gun to see how that works out.

On my first build 11 years ago, I glued both Ch17LT side panels together incorrectly.  As suggested by CLC, I used a heat gun to soften the epoxy and they came apart no problem.  First, soften any glass that you have applied and remove with a putty knife.  Then slowly start heating the joint until the epoxy softens and push the joint apart.  The puzzle joints are very precisly cut so there is very little epoxy in the joint itself.  M joints went back together  with very little clean up.  Just be patient during the entire process and heat the inside in case the heat discolors the wood.

Top picture shows me in process of separating the pieces.  On the right is an incorrect panel and the lower left is a joint that has been separated.  Lower picture shows both panels correctly glued together.

Didn't realize that the Chessies had switched to puzzle joints. The last time I built one (20 years ago) it had scarph joints. Guess the world changes when you're not looking.

Laszlo

just another vote for the heatgun. 

i think Mark N, above, describes it best.  i inherited a project with misglued panels and heat gun and some pressure and patience, as Mark described, and they came apart pretty easily.   the heating process is the longest step... and  the heat has to have a chance to soak into the joint....but not so hot to burn it.  that said, i found kitchen mits helped as the parts got too hot to touch.  the glue basically become plasticy and down pressure on one side of the joint relative to the other points starts to work them apart. 

aditives/silica has no impact on the process.   

i would hold on ordering the new piece....they are expensive so wait until you see where you are at seperating them.

stay away from the jewelers saw idea....almost seems like part of the answer is AI generated.  anyway, as a practical matter no real way to get a jewelers saw on the cut line as the parts are two big and dont see how the frame of the jewelers saw wouldn't get hung up on the part..   

when they make the original cuts, they are cnc cut....so the pieces that come together are not even oposite sides of a cut....as laszlo mentioned, they are very precise so little glue in there.

hope this is, addiitonally, helpful.

h

Yep, I should have done the heat gun route! I did end up purchasing another side.  My brother had a heat gun so I borrowed it and decided to give it a go.  It wasn't really that hard at all, once heated the puzzle joints came apart pretty easy.  There was some risidual expoxy & cilica on the joints so it will need some careful sanding.

Yep, I should have done the heat gun route! I did end up purchasing another side.  My brother had a heat gun so I borrowed it and decided to give it a go.  It wasn't really that hard at all, once heated the puzzle joints came apart pretty easy.  There was some risidual expoxy & cilica on the joints so it will need some careful sanding.

   Lazlo, I'd take a scarf joint or butt joint any day over the puzzle joints.  They just look bad and often require multiple sandings to get them to fit. Wish CLC would go back to the prior ways.