Chesapeake 17 - deck to hull joint



.After a notable hiatus I have restarted my Ch 17 build and today installed the deck.  With the help of a friend with better skills than mine it went more quickly than I expected with good results - with one exception.  Whether because of some flawed sheer clamp planing or some other reason, I find I have a 1/8 - 1/16 in space between the deck and the top of the sides - pretty much all around.  I tried to fill a bit of it with some thickened epoxy but that turned out to be pretty much a mess and it was virtually impossible to squeeze the epoxy into the space.  I am wondering if this will be filled by unthickened epoxy when I fiberglass or if there is some other fix?  Is there anything I can apply as a thin seam with a caulking gun or similar tool?  Bruce




7 replies:

« Previous Post       List of Posts       Next Post »

RE: Chesapeake 17 - deck to hull joint

   If you can see daylight through these cracks, then you should definitely fill them with epoxy thickened with wood flour. If these are just gaps from bad joints that still meet at the back and if you will be covering the area with fiberglass cloth, then you should be OK. The cloth and the epoxy should fill gaps of 1/8th inch or less. I think. :-)

RE: Chesapeake 17 - deck to hull joint

I built a 14last year and had the same issue. I was able to fill it with wood flour thickened epoxy. I didn't like the final look so I applied auto pin stripe tape before clear coating.    

RE: Chesapeake 17 - deck to hull joint

Did you try a putty knife or syringe?



RE: Chesapeake 17 - deck to hull joint

   You can easily make a tool to help you with this. Cut out a huge plastic putty knife from an empty jug of some kind -- about 6" by 12". I used an empty 20lb kitty litter container. Put a smear of peanut butter epoxy about 3" wide on the tool. You can scrape this along the seam of your boat to apply a controlled amount of goop. Of course, it will only work where there is a sharp edge to scrape along.

RE: Chesapeake 17 - deck to hull joint


   I did try a putty knife but found it difficult to squeeze the epoxy into the seam and avoid getting a lot on the side of the hull.  I already created some residue that will have to be sanded off and stopped before I made it worse. I also found that it was setting up too quickly to do any fine work.  I have syringes and thought I would try working with those but I’m not sure what mix to work with.  I see no daylite and the putty knife does not pass all the way  through.  BTW, in some sections near the stern the gap appears to be almost a 1/4 in but those are the exception.  Bruce


RE: Chesapeake 17 - deck to hull joint

   You may find that turning the boat up on its side helps this operation since gravity would be assisting you. You also might apply the thickened epoxy as you would drywall mud. Yes you might need to sand it smooth. But good knife work will counter that.

I suspect the bevel of the joints just wasn't ..................... completed.


Either way you do not want any "air" voids behind the cloth.

RE: Chesapeake 17 - deck to hull joint

i would fill the gap with woodflour thickened epoxy....mayonaise/whipped butter consistency.

when i do something like this, i use inexpensive blue masking tape (painters tape) on either side of the gap/seam that i am filling.  trowel it in... then use a spreader to push it into the seam and clean up the excess

then remove the blue painters tape and you will have almost nothing to clean up in terms of thickened epoxy sitting on the adjacent wood...potentially discoloring it.   this will also save you significant sanding time.

all the best, 




« Previous Post     List of Posts     Next Post »

Please login or register to post a reply.