Builders' Forum |
|
↓ Scroll to Last Comment ↓ | Forum Guidelines | Builders' Forum | RSS |
Kick Up Rudder For NE Dory Finished
Finally finished...thanks to various people's help!
- The blade is held down by adjustable shock cord.
- The blade has a pull-up line that cleats off in a cam cleat in the cockpit.
- The "housing" is open on one side with a large bolt and fender washers and bronze bushings and a 4" plastic "washer" between the blade and housing from a coffee can lid.
- The leading edge and bottom of the blade has an epoxy soaked rope buried in the faired epoxy
- The trailing edge is about a 2-1/2" taper.
- All the through holes are drill, fill, drill.
- The rudder housing has 4 coats epoxy and 6 coats varnish
- The rudder blade has 4 coats epoxy and 4 coats Brightside paint
- I wont get to see how it works until we get to Port Townsend WA June1 (bummer!)
I hope this link works for a video of it:
(I have pitures in Google too if you like)
Thanks
Curt
5 replies:
RE: Kick Up Rudder For NE Dory Finished
Thank you for posting the Pics Moonchaser!
Gives me some ideas on how to modify my dory.
RE: Kick Up Rudder For NE Dory Finished
Sorry coming late to this story but we built a standard CLC kick-up for our NE dory. Why not go with that? Works very nicely.
RE: Kick Up Rudder For NE Dory Finished
Hi John,
The primary reason I wanted a VERY kicked up rudder blade was to allow the boat to be pushed into the water on a sandy shore with neither the cheeks or the blade digging into the lake bottom. If you compare the lowest points when rudders are up, mine is fully above the skeg and lined up with the boat bottom at the stern. The CLC lowest point when the blade is up is even with the bottom of the skeg.
A second aspect is the ability to lift the bow when pushing the boat into the water. My rudder cheek and blade together form an arc that will allow me to have the skeg as the rocker point where the CLC cheeks go straight back level with the water line.
Some other reasons for my design are I wanted shock cord to hold the blade down with a line to pull it up. I also wanted a deeper more vertical blade.
I'm excited to try it out, when we get to Port Townsend WA in June.
I'm glad the CLC rudder works for you!
Curt
RE: Kick Up Rudder For NE Dory Finished
I’d like to bring this back to the top and recommend Curt’s ideas. IMHO, the smartest part of the design is getting the rudder and housing up above the skeg when everything is retracted. If you ever pull up on a beach you’ll be happy everything is clear of the sand.
There were at least two rudders broken Saturday at Okoume Fest due to being jammed into the sand and having wakes and waves slosh the boats around. To protect mine I pulled it when beached but still got the works gummed up with sand and pebbles. Shipping it again was pretty tough. If the water was any rougher it would have been very difficult indeed.
So, hat’s off to Curt for an elegant solution!
The CLC kick up version however, will just barely steer the boat if you forget to lower the foil. Can’t decide if this is a good or bad thing…
RE: Kick Up Rudder For NE Dory Finished
» Submitted by George K - Mon, 4/22/19 » 11:45 AM
Curt,
Very cool! Looking forward to the follow up report on June 2!
George