Skerry mistake for water flow on floor


Guess I should of read the instructions more during the class, I missed adding the glass under the arch for water flow under the center seat 

any suggestions on the best way to flatten this? File it down and epoxy the dip?


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RE: Skerry mistake for water flow on floor

You're talking about the delamination under the limber hole arch? Yes, definitely remove it. If it hasn't fully cured yet, you can cut it away with a very sharp razor knife. If it's too hard for that, a sharp file, a rasp, small chisel, etc. can be used instead. My favorite for this kind of thing is a Dremel. Whatever you use, it needs to be as sharp as possible to avoid damaging the wood (and your fingers). If it's a grinding tool, make sure you use some kind of dust protection/removal. Epoxy-coated glass particles are really bad for your lungs. When you're done, sand the edges to make sure they're flat and feathered into the wood.

Once you've removed the delamination, you have several choices. Since that's not a structural joint, you can do waht you suggested and just paint it with epoxy to waterproof it. That's the quickest and simplest thing to do and it will last for many years. If you're more a belt and suspenders kind of person, putting a glass patch over the bare wood will give it protection that will last the lifetime of the boat. Any clean leftover piece will do.

Have fun,


RE: Skerry mistake for water flow on floor

Peripheral topic - I feel a little dumb on the concept of these holes in the first place.  I wasn't sure I wanted water sloshing freely back and forth under there. So I plugged the holes with sponge.  Is there a particular purpose to them? 

Similarly, the idea of fibreglassing the interior of an open boat like the Skerry.  I see no particular reason to do it.  Extra work, extra epoxy, extra weight.  It's not like the interior of my boat is going to possibly run into things, like the exterior hull might.  Yes, I did fibreglass the exterior, for abrasion resistance against anything the boat might run into, or be run into, and also, for waterproofing it, from the water below the boat.  I've built 3 CLC boats, and a Shell Boat, and have never fibreglassed the interior.  Never had a problem, and I've owned these boats for a number of years.   For the Shell boat - a Swifty 13, and my CLC Sassafras 12, I did not fibreglass the bottom.  On each side of the hull is 2 coats clear epoxy, 2 coats 1-2-3 primer and 2 coats exterior latex paint.  Paint jobs are holding up fine, and no rots or leaks that I've noticed.  

RE: Skerry mistake for water flow on floor

2 words - dropped anchor. It's happened to one of my boats, the only one without glass inside of course. If you use a motor, gas or electric, that's other stuff to drop on the floor. Finally, if you do run into something outside, glass on the inside helps prevent punctures. I really recommend at least glassing the inside part below the waterline.

Limber holes let the water even itself out in the boat. If they aren't there, you can take a wave over the top and end up with one flooded compartment and the rest dry. Now your boat is unbalanced and listing. The next wave may flip you.

As long as the limber holes are correctly sized, the bulkheads will act as baffles and keep the water from sloshing (which is also bad).

Finally, limber holes make draining the water out easier. On land just raise the bow a bit and all the water runs to the stern. On the water, a single bilge pump in the lowest compartment will drain them all.



RE: Skerry mistake for water flow on floor

   Wow very informative, thanks!

RE: Skerry mistake for water flow on floor

   Lazslo, Your answer re water coming inboard balancing out, and not overloading one compartment makes perfect sense.  Thank you - hadn't thought of that!  As yet, after about a dozen outings in my Skerry, fortunately I've yet to have any water come inboard, though have come close a few times. The highest windsI've had the boat out was in gusts to 20, whitecaps here and there but not predominant - and that was dicey, i.e., I felt a bit nervous, despite having 20 lbs of ballast down by the mast step.  Am considering putting a side shelf/seat on each side, between the back seat and middle thwart, to sit on, for better self-ballasting, during tacks into the wind.  

As yet I've no plans to ever take an engine along for the Skerry.  I can oar along at 3 to 4 mph and that's fine for me.  Have not anchored out in it yet.  Yesterday I was happy to see that I could kind of "heave-to, skerry-style" by pointing about 50 to 70 degrees off the wind, relaxing the mainsheet, and pushing the tiller leeward.  The boat just steadily languored, a-hull. 

RE: Skerry mistake for water flow on floor

   Yes to all that plus.............when I get it on shore and ready to go into the storage I have pulled the plugs and elevated the bow to drain out the compartments of any "leaked" or "condensated" water in the compartments. 

Plug up the drain holes and it won't drain. 

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