LIVE CHAT WITH CLC - Today at 1pm Eastern

I'll be on Facebook Live today, Friday, April 10, at 1pm Eastern.

Check it out here. Ask me questions!

If you miss it you'll be able to go back and watch the broadcast later. But if people don't pop up to interact, I'll be sitting there gaping awkwardly, like a landed fish.

6 replies:

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RE: LIVE CHAT WITH CLC - Today at 1pm Eastern

John - thanks for doing the facebook live - was fun to have a little social interaction with everyone, albeit virtual. 

During the live stream, you had mentioned a method for hot coating epoxy - using a cotton ball to test the cure, then coating when the substrate no longer "picked up" the threads from the cotton ball.  The part that intrigued me - as i have limited time to assemble and finish my build - was applying multiple coats in one day.  Can you provide details on the prep between coats?  Wipe down, sanding, no sanding...?  Not saying this is an ideal assembly method - but in a pinch - it would be interesting.  Can you provide a bit more detail on how to make this work when under a time crunch?  Thanks!!


RE: LIVE CHAT WITH CLC - Today at 1pm Eastern


You deffinately do not want to sand if the epoxy is no tfully cured!! That would put toxic active dust particles in the air. very dangerous for your health.

The trick John was refering to is additional coats before the epoxy is full cured. The idea is if the previous coat of epoxy is cured enough to not move (run, sag...) the you can add a next coat without doing any prep whatsoever. The new expoy will make a chemical bond with the not fully cured 'older' epoxy. The ideal situation. If the older epoxy is fully cured (inert) we have to sand it to make a rough enough survace for a mechenical bond, which is not as good as a chemical bond, but works well enough if you cannot get the next coat on the boat before the first coat has cured.

I have found that this method is easier with Maas epoxy than with WEST epoxy. For me the WEST seems to stay wet for a long time and then cure quickly (very very subjective statement) while the Mass seems to 'firm up', but stay soft for a longer time (again, for me) allowing a bigger window of oppertunity for the next coat. It just might be something about the temperatures in my basement.

I also use this method to coat my fillets with epoxy, and/or to glass tape over them.

I hope my explaination was clear,


RE: LIVE CHAT WITH CLC - Today at 1pm Eastern

OK need more on that 'cotton ball' test - I'd read about that elsewhere but my understanding came away with the idea that the coat being tested is fine for re-coating AS LONG AS threads get pulled off the ball?

If it's not sticky enough to do that, there's little chance for a real "chemical bond" to occur. Better to wait it out then ScotchBrite / sand / otherwise break surface by roughening before applying additional epoxy to ensure a proper mechanical bond.

Other sources suggest even if it's cured hard enough to resist fingernail dent it's still not cured 100% for quite some time depending on ambient temp. Breaking glaze helps but you still get primarily chemical bond within 24-36 hour time-frame.


RE: LIVE CHAT WITH CLC - Today at 1pm Eastern

   The cotton ball test is explained in FAQ section. Also thumb print test. Pretty simple. Press your thumb into the work if it leaves a print no sanding needed to redcoat chemical bond will occur, no print sand or scuff before recoating. 

RE: LIVE CHAT WITH CLC - Today at 1pm Eastern

   OP assumed your using Mas. Others may differ 

RE: LIVE CHAT WITH CLC - Today at 1pm Eastern

   Thanks Pappy - exactly what i was looking for!

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