Sanding varnish

Just put on my first coat of varnish and can says 12 hr recoat time. My question is do I need to wait to sand also or can I sand it sooner?  Also I keep seeing the recommendation for the green scotch brute pads to sand. I found 3m synthetic steel wool. 0 fine coarseness. Is that the correct stuff?  Thanks. 

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RE: Sanding varnish

   I don't know why it keeps double posting my post. And not sure how to delete the extra. 

RE: Sanding varnish

Doubled post just happen sometimes. You can't delete 'em, a moderator can but it's really not worth asking 'em to by reporting it.

As for green Scotchbrite... what color's yours?

That 12 hr re-coat's usually for the window w/o sanding first. Recoat wet w/o sanding within 12 hrs will give a good bond. Beyond that interval, sanding first helps the next coat to bond properly. Sanding earlier may just gum up your paper & screw up what you just laid down. Better to wait the 12 hr minimum, maybe more depending on your work environment. High humidity & cooler temps are going to lengthen that 12 hr window.

I like the maroon/brown Norton product that I call Scotchbrite (like Kleenex for nosewipes). No idea who makes the green stuff, unless it's 3M!


RE: Sanding varnish

it's green in color. Each pad is fairly thick. 

RE: Sanding varnish

it's green in color. Each pad is fairly thick. 

RE: Sanding varnish

That's what I'd take for 3M synthetic abrasive; there are different grades, each a different color.

Try it on a small part of the varnish that you have on now, if it's dried enough to sand by now. The Scotchbrite stuff can be used wet or dry & until it starts falling apart can be water-rinsed & re-used.

RE: Sanding varnish

Steel wool is not a good idea for objects that will be exposed to water, such as varnished boats. No matter what you do, it leaves fine metal dust embedded in the varnish and can lead to rust streaks. Save it for the bookcase.



RE: Sanding varnish

You're correct Laszlo regarding traditional steel wool abrasive for working on boats.

I wouldn't recommend "steel" wool either for that potential rust reason alone but also becuase it's manufactured and packaged with an oily coating to resist rusting before sale and use.

Oily abrasives are certainly not something one would want to use around an epoxy project.

What Alan's looking to use is a synthetic (non-metallic) abrasive product sold under several brand names of which 3M's Scotch-Brite product is just one. Selected with attention to the abrasive rating, it's a great replacement for what "steel" wool has been used for where the drawbacks of real steel wool are best avoided. (It's not wool either though it bears a resemblance.)

This stuff can be used like sandpaper, either wet or dry depending on your task. It won't remove material like sandpaper though so for flattening, as with a longboard, sandpaper's a better choice. (These days there's no "sand" in sandpaper either, it's mostly been replaced by sharper, longer-wearing abrasives like alumina or silicon carbide.)

I myself am a fan of a similar product sold by the Norton company called Bear-tex, likely because 3M has Scotch-Brite copyrighted for their exclusive use.

There's no steel innit and it's not wool either, but it works great and can last a long time.

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