Assembling a Boat Kit: Stitch and Glue Construction
Stitch and Glue Boatbuilding TipsStitch-and-glue boat building, along with the development of epoxy and modern mahogany marine plywood, has revolutionized and revitalized wooden boat building.
This method of boat building is not only stronger, lighter, and faster than traditional wooden boat building, but it also takes far less skill. Here's how a CLC stitch-and-glue kayak is assembled. Of course each model is a little different, but you'll get the idea... These drawings, by John Harris, show a Chesapeake 16. You can watch a video of this kayak kit being built from start to finish here.
1. Begin with an inventory of your computer-cut kit and group all the related parts.
2. Parts longer than 8 feet - the standard size of a plywood sheet - are assembled using scarf joints. Scarf joints, bonded with epoxy, are like a weld; stronger than the surrounding wood.
3. Longitudinal stringers are glued to the side panels to provide stiffness, and later, an attachment point for the deck.
4. The bottom panels are fastened to the side panels with stitches made from short lengths of copper wire.
5. Side panels are stitched with copper wire at the bow and stern and a stick is inserted in between to spread the panels to the correct beam.
6. Here, the bottom panels have been completely stitched to the side panels, in a matter of a few hours creating the finished hull shape.
7. With the bottom stitched on, the hull is righted and bulkheads set in place. The bulkheads help stiffen the hull and create watertight compartments.
8. Now, the "glue" part of stitch-and-glue construction: the hull seams are joined using an epoxy "fillet" with fiberglass tape for additional reinforcement.
9. When the epoxy has cured on the interior, the hull is flipped once again and the copper wires snipped off. The seams are snaded smooth and filled completely.
10. A tough sheathing of fiberglass cloth is applied to the exterior and bonded to the hull with epoxy.
11. The sheer clamps (the stringers glued on back in step three) are planed to accept the deck panels using a template provided with the kit.
12. Decks are prepared for installation by applying a coat of epoxy to their undersides.
13. The deck is installed in two operations: first the stern, then the bow. The deck is fastened down with bronze ring nails while the glue dries.
14. The cockpit is laminated onto the deck in three layers, using epoxy and lots of c-clamps.
15. The finished cockpit increases the deck's strength and creates a flange for a spray skirt.
16. While the cockpit is curing, the hatch covers are assembled.
17. Hatch openings are cut in the deck and reinforced.
18. Hull assembly is complete when the deck has been sanded and fiberglassed. Time to varnish! Sanding and finishing can be expected to take about half of the total time of the project.
19. When varnishing is complete, the cockpit is fitted out with a seat, hip braces, and backband, all included in the kit.
20. Foot braces, included in the kit, complete the fit-out.
Finished - Just add varnish... and water! You can spend as much time finishing as you want. At minimum, you'll need a coat or three of varnish or paint to protect the epoxy from the sun's rays. You control the finish quality - when you're ready, go paddling!