Sharpening Tools

The only thing a dull wood plane or block plane is good for is a doorstop. A sharp block plane, on the other hand, is one of the most enchanting and satisfying woodworking tools ever devised. Slicing long, smooth spiral shavings of wood with little friction is the kind of work that turns carpentry into a lifelong passion.

A small block plane is an "edge-tool" that every boatbuilder should own. It is useful for trimming parts, cutting bevels, and a hundred other tasks. Here, we'll describe sharpening a plane's "iron," or blade. Most tools are sharpened the same way.

At CLC we sharpen our plane irons on a Japanese waterstone. These stones are quick and easy to use and leave a keener edge than an oil-stone (or Arkansas stone). A combination waterstone with a 1000-grit surface (coarse) on one side and a 6000-grit surface (fine) on the other is perfect for sharpening woodworking tools or even kitchen knives. These stones use water as a lubricant—never use oil on a waterstone!—and should be soaked for a few hours prior to use. We store our sharpening stones in a water-filled plastic container.

Step 1: Flatten the Back of the Blade
First we'll flatten the back of the plane iron. Splash some water onto the coarse side of the stone and lay the iron on it, back face down. Sharpen it by pushing it up and down the stone in a circular motion. This is quick, no more than 15 seconds of this or so, unless the iron is a total wreck.

Use the entire length of the stone. Splash more water on the stone frequently and check often to see if the blade's back is smooth and flat. This may take some time if this is a new tool; the tool factories these days can't be relied upon to get this perfect. When the entire back of the iron is shiny, flip the waterstone to the "fine" side and sharpen for three minutes more.

Step 2, Sharpen the Beveled Side:
Hold the blade against the coarse side of the stone so that it rests on its bevel. Rock the blade slightly to get a feel for when it's resting squarely on the bevel. This takes steady hands, patience, and a little practice. Move the blade back and forth on the stone, making a long oval circuit. Keep your fingers close to the bevel and press down gently. Take care that the iron remains at a constant angle with the bevel flat on the stone. If you're having trouble keeping the bevel flat against the stone, slow down. There's no prize for speed, here.

Step 3, Switch to the Fine Side:
When the entire bevel has been sharpened on the coarse side—the entire bevel should be shiny—flip the sharpening stone to the fine side. Splash the stone with water and sharpen the bevel for about a minute. 

Step 4, Flatten the Back of the Iron Again:
If you now draw your fingernail down the back of the edge you should feel a tiny burr, or "wire," as its known, created when the thin, razor-sharp metal edge bent back during the sharpening process. Place the iron flat on its back again, on the fine side of the stone. It'll only take a stroke or two to remove the wire.

Keep an old rag near your sharpening station for drying the iron when you're done. With practice, you can almost shave with this edge! Woodworkers quickly grow accustomed to the ease of really sharp tools. Sharpen early and often. You'll get faster and faster with your sharpening technique, and sharp tools will become a healthy, deeply satisfying habit!

For more on sharpening planes, check out Nick Schade's video: