Chesapeake 17 - epoxy on glassed hull

 

 

 

More newbie qustions:

Now that I have applied several layers of epoxy to my CH 17 hull I'm not sure I have ended up with the intended result.  I applied the first layer with the plastic squeegee and, as best as I could tell I wetted out out all the glass without floating.  Subsequent layers went on thin with a roller.  I lightly sanded runs and drips between the second and subsequent layers.  For the most part the surface is exttremely rough and "pimply" though there are a few sections which are shiny and smooth and few others where I still feel the cloth.  Is the surface something to be concerned about at this point or does it get resolved when I sand prior to varnishing?  I understand I still need to address the spots where I am feeling the cloth - I'm not sure why that is the case - but otherwise, I am hoping to move on and return to the hull at the same time I install and epoxy the deck.

I also discovered that the cloth at the very tip of the bow and stern is standing off ofthe wood slightly - perhaps I didn't round the edge enough at that point.  I'm not sure how visible this will be once the deck is on but I think at least a bit.  Anything to do about this?  

Finally, apologies for not changing the subject matter, but do the sheer clamps and deck beams all get floated with unthickened epoxy i.e., all bare wood?  

Thanks to all for your advice - this forum has really been invaluable.

Bruce

 

 


8 replies:

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RE: Chesapeake 17 - epoxy on glassed hull

 "...... Finally, apologies for not changing the subject matter, but do the sheer clamps and deck beams all get floated with unthickened epoxy i.e., all bare wood?....."  

Yes, before the deck gets installed.

You still feel the fabric because the weave is not yet full.

The air bubbles can be relieved by tipping after rolling.  Well, they say that. I usuall sand between coats (fine grit) but not in the "weave" areas.  

RE: Chesapeake 17 - epoxy on glassed hull

   Another remedy for those pimples- if you don't want to use a disposable roller AND brush to tip it out, is to lightly wave hot air from a heat gun over the surface. The heat briefly warms the epoxy, pops the bubbles, and slightly smooths the roller's orange peel texture.

RE: Chesapeake 17 - epoxy on glassed hull

   Can I still use the heat gun now that I have multiple layers of epoxy?  I have been standing between layers but evidently not enough.  Will the sanding  that I will need to do prior to finishing (varnish) smooth everything out or do I need to address this now?

RE: Chesapeake 17 - epoxy on glassed hull

 I wasn't describing the heat gun use for already cured epoxy, but for still wet, just-applied epoxy.

RE: Chesapeake 17 - epoxy on glassed hull

   Btw, "wind" in Hebrew?

RE: Chesapeake 17 - epoxy on glassed hull

 "......  I also discovered that the cloth at the very tip of the bow and stern is standing off of the wood slightly - perhaps I didn't round the edge enough at that point......".

Or you're sanding too much there. A picture would be nice. 1.There needs to be some roundness. Glass cloth does not like square edges. You could put a radius on the edge. Then try,  a three inch tape, applied down the bow and stern (1.5" +/-  either side). Then fill the cloth and feather out and sand the cloth edge to the hull. 2. It is possible too that the hull is not faired well and the tip "bulbes" in plan view cuts.  Thus the sander being flat sands off the glass at the bulb ridge.  Check with straight edge.

RE: Chesapeake 17 - epoxy on glassed hull

So will I be able to eliminate most of the "pimples" when I sand prior to varnishing?

 Yes, Ruach  means both wind and spirit in Hebrew - it's what I named my Rhodes 22 pocket cruiser. 

RE: Chesapeake 17 - epoxy on glassed hull

 -can't say for sure whether your dimples run too deep to sand out. It'd be worth going over the surface with a ro sander (or hand block sander) with 80g until it's about 80% non-shiny. Then look at those craters- are they much shallower after sanding? If not, then they need epoxy applied to fill them.

Since you have deck glass yet to apply and fill, you're going to have plenty of opportunities to add swipes of epoxy to whatever problem areas remain.

Once your deck is glassed, consider adding a wet scotchbrite or light wet sand step between coats (followed by an alcohol and paper towel wipe down to dry/remove water), just to be sure there's no contamination.

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