Should sheer clamp be flush with hull top?

Building a shearwater 16 hybrid, first build. In the guide, the sheer clamp is flush with the top of the hull in some spots and a bit above in others. But now I am doing the last step before I strip the deck, and I'm confused. When I put in the forms, some are sitting above the hull top and others lower while others are flush. Now when I did the rolling bevel it looks perfect in some spots (form curve continues through sheer clamp and a little of the hull plywood) but in others I still have sheer clamp above the hull. And in others there is a bit of gap between the sheer clamp and the form edge. 
hopefully that makes sense (can add pics if not). What I don't know is whether I should have planned the sheer clamp before installing the forms so that the notch of the form is sitting at the hull edge. It doesn't seem right where I have sheer clamp above the hull showing. 

Thanks in advance,


2 replies:

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RE: Should sheer clamp be flush with hull top?

Sheer clamps's there to provide a wider bonding surface for the deck components than the edge of the hull panels at the gunwale would otherwise provide.

You should be able to take a thin batten to 'carry' the curves (camber) of the frames' tops outward just to touch the hull panels' top edge. The sheer clamps' "rolling bevel' is intended to carry this curve inward enough between frames for the larger bonding surface it will provide.

Small gaps where the rolling bevel falls below the hull panel edges may be filled during deck bonding with thickend epoxy without sacrificing anything structural but at the expense of a little extra weight and more epoxy than wood for the joint.

Sheer clamps left 'proud' (above) the hull panels' top edge will create a gap between deck and hull that ought to be avoided both for strength as well as asthetics.

As you plane the rolling bevels, then when assembling your deck, you should be able to sight along the gunwales to judge how smooth a curve you're creating. Taking time to yield a fair curve at deck-to-hull join will pay off once you're into the later stages of your build and well after.

(One of the major aspects of stitch and glue is that parts don't have to be 'dead nuts' perfect for adequate strength & durability once bonded. In some cases a gap of 1/8" isn't insurmountable yet it does give one satisfaction when edges meet nicely without having to apply excessive force.)

RE: Should sheer clamp be flush with hull top?

Thanks much! I took out the forms that were too high or low and redid them so the slope now goes through to the top (or a bit into) the hull. Looks much better. On to the deck stripping!

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